Nottingham lace nets



Nov. 15, 1955 A. c. WHEATCROFT NOTTINGHAM LACE NETS Filed July 12, 1954 INVENTOR Afr/m? (f W/s airc'i rl' 6% M ATTO N EY United States Patent Ofiice 2,723,588 Eatented Nov. 15, 1955 N lT'I K A1 LACE N .Arthur C. Wheat croft, Stamford, ;'Conn., as signqr,; by mesne assignments, to North American Lace Company, -Inc., Philadelphia, Pa., a corporation of Pennsylvania Application July 12, 195 4, Serial No. 442,463

-s- Claims. (Cl. s7--2 LThis invention relates ;to-Nottingham .lace nets gen- 'erally, and more; particularly, .to elastic. Nottinghani lace nets.

Nottingham lace is woven upon a Nottinghamlace curtainmachine, butpwing, to the mechanicallimitations of the Nottingham lace curtain machine, the gauge of .the lace goods woven by such machines is considerablyand t qt cea yr qw han the au itlace s eds P ne upon-o h t set aw making h ne :Whenthelgauge fofi the lace goods to be ,woven makes their production upon a-Nottingham lace curtain machine ,.possible theproduction costiof. the lace goods so produped compares; favorably, with the cost of, similar. goods ,woven upon o ther types of lace making machines' ;Nottinghamlace curtain machines, are yery expensive, a d,a mi1l equipped withl suchmachines-represents a very substanti \fiaan a u n st en herefo i ,tantto develop new products ,which can..be .-,wov en. in a N ttin ham-la cu t i ma nea i so d acqmpetitio ,with; comparable products, woven upon other types of lace 1 ma in chines- :Qnecbmctp th t v tt q r s a Nqt p amla ab i o ase m n ba tin seu hea h n-ab ect th ss nyent n is Q-imma ethe usefu range of ,thehlottingham lace ,curtain mac hine by modifyi:ng.. it. to weave. f ner gauge ,looking-Nottingharri lace .z e tic Aa th wb-i i afia a e loo n l s ott n 11. 11 ecet These and other objects will more fully appear from the, detailedh idescription ,which L follows.

' ac orda c .ari thi i ven io .iadditipna .wam h ee w ven. ab-QY mamma ea ac ytofth ,tinghamdace .Winw t 1e9 n then m th e d ar raa inltwo disti 1 1cti ve groups, or yarp bearns,having, bobbin ea smma ti a t an .tlhei pg .,t tead tare .Ien d fi thetwee .t aw r lhtea as n sr up a there tied. byfltheuconimqn bohbin threads, and ,then be tw e h Mam-th a o Jhwth r s unan j e t .bythe,comm nhob in reads ..t .w.eavq c n h u n a ollh wsr s emin l ,finen au e -Q tibnal Nottingham lace goods.

.l t e fi re, 9 11 .dtawm r whic 1 embodime o th int ntivni .d aa za ma sa k .,il str ia. fr

men f c hesbsen,,saa iler b y. e lar t t it 60 a .ande sta ldia t ah strli ur her o .-th a. s t reehQwa-i tthe dt wiesath W threads are sub-divided into two separate and distinct a sl lo War heat- 1 i asuchaman r .t th tot inumh as s arp th ead i e h .W IP bea 410 n ezsse ihe.a rm g a t fth Nott n ham ac su tain, machine. Qne of the said warp, beams, for example a machi aam m t 'd ss t int machinegand the other warp ,beanr indicated' by I 2 additional or supplementary warp beam within the capacity of'the Nottingham lace curtainmachine. It should therefore be understood that each of the said warp beams includes other and additional threads, not shown, but which extend sideways across the loom width of the lace net.

Although two separate and distinct warp beams are used, the warp threads of one group alternate'withthe warp threads of the other group across the loom width of the lace net, so 'thatthe warp thread 30 of the supplementary warp beam is positioned between""-the warp threads andZl of the conventional warp beam, the warp'thread 21' of the conventional warp beam is positioned between the'warp -threads30 and 31 of the supple- 1 mental-warp beam, the warp thread 31 of the supplementalwarp beam is positioned between the warp threads '21 and*22 of 'the conventional warp beam, and so on, all across the loom width of the Nottingham lace curtain machine. "By this arrangement, the gauge of the resulting g lace structure, when woven, appears twice as'fine as the gauge of'theNottingham' lace structure produced in the conventional manner upon such Nottingham lace curtain machine.

The bobbin threads40 to-47 are common to a plurality -of warp "threads comprising one warp'from each warp beam. Thus bobbin thread 40' is common to the warp --threads 20;?0; bobbin thread 41 is common to the warp -'threads*21',"31; bobbin thread 42*is common to warp threadsrZZ," 32; etc. The bobbin threads pillar around -0118 warp thread at' atimefor apredetermined number of motions,- and' thenaround another warp thread for a predetermined numberof motions, and the number of such pillaring motions may be varied at will, dependent upon the lace'net under construction. 'Thus the bobbin thread 41 pillars zwith warp thread 21' for five distinctive tmotionstof the' lace -structure,-and then -with' the warp wthread 3t); for;six distinctive motions'of the lace structure to weave the "doc 60, and then" back again with 'the warp "thread-121' fore six distinctive motions of'the' lace structure 10 weave the dot80.

The spoolrthreadsmSl to 57, etc.,- are "variously extended from: one .warp threadto another of 'the same warp beam 1 :with 1 .whichtthesbobbin threads are then I pilla'ring, rforra predetermined number of 'distinctive motions of 45 the lace structure, and are there tied by the'pillaring abobbinr threads, to.weave-a--row of-spaced dots, such as 1 the dots 160, 61, -and '62, .with openwork'figures"70, '71,

:and'i72, therebetween,and thus"form=-a section of the .groundwo'rk of'lthewlace fabric. Thereafter the bobbin threads arecaused' totpillar with the warp-threads of the other warp beam, and the spool threads 51-to-57, etc., tare .variouslyextendedfrom onewarp thread to another of' the warp' beam with which the bobbin threads are now pillaring, for a predetermined number of distinctive mo- 55 I tions of the lace structure, and are there tied by the bob- :bin threads .tosweave another row of spaced dots, such as andn 2,. therebetween, and thus" form another section of t the groundwork of the lacefabric.

Only onei-Warp beam is' used at atime to anchor the spool threadvtiesvin -place, and-,thetbobbin threads, which are individually 2 commontocne [warp wthread t of ,each

beam, .pillar for e. predetermined,numbenof distinctive motions as selected. to tie the, spool threads, if .;thenex- ,tended, to the warp threads with whichthe bobbin threads are p then pillaring.

The dots are woven byextendingmthewspool threads across the bars, from one warp thread to anqtherin one directionand in proper sequence, tying the spool threads to thewarp'threads by, means of the pillaring bobbin thre ads,--and'then reversing the direction of movement to -return'thespool threads to their previous positions relative to their associated warp threads, and tie the spool threads a ain. to form a spool thread tie.

The size of the dots, or clothing, will vary according to the nature of the lace structure, but in the particular lace net illustrated in the drawing, each dot consists of two single spool thread ties, with one double spool thread tie therebetween, woven as follows. Referring to the dot 60. the spool thread 52 (shown in broken lines) is first pillared with warp thread by bobbin thread 41; then it is extended to the warp thread 31 and there tied bv bobbin thread 42 to form a single spool thread tie, both of the spool threads 52 and 53 are next extended together from warp thread 31 to warp thread 30 and are tied to warp thread 30 simultaneously by the pillaring of bobbin thread 41; both spool threads are then returned to warn thread 31 and simultaneously tied by bobbin thread 42; both spool threads are then returned to warp thread 30 and simultaneously tied thereto by the pillaring of bobbin thread 41, to complete a double spool thread tie; spool thread 52 then pillars along warp thread 30 to lock the double spool thread tie, while spool thread 53 is returned to warp thread 31 and is there tied by the pillaring of bobbin thread 42 to complete another single spool thread tie.

The dots 61 and 62, and their repeats, are all woven at the same time as the dot 60; the dot 61 being woven between the warp threads 32 and 33; the dot 62 being woven between the warp threads 34 and 35; etc. Each dot 60 to 62, etc., as shown, consists of a series of spool thread ties as described, four rows or motions long as measured along the warp threads, or lengthwise, of the lace fabric. Preceding, and following, each dot, is an open row or motion, which results because the spool threads pillar with the warp threads for two motions, one at the end of one dot, and the other before the beginning of the next dot. Thus after dot 60 was woven the spool thread 53 pillared with warp thread 31 for one motion to tie oil the dot 60, and then pillars with the warp thread 22 for one motion to tie off dot 81 before forming it. By this arrangement two rows or motions of openwork separate each row of dots from the preceding, or succeeding, row of dots. The total number of rows or motions used up in weaving each row of dots and the pillar therebetween is accordingly six, and this requires three full, or six half, motions, of the Nottingham lace curtain machine to complete the said series of weaving operations.

While the dots 60 to 62, etc., were being woven, the bobbin threads to 46, etc., were unable to pillar along the warp threads 20 to 26, etc., hence the spool threads could not be tied to the warp threads 20 to 26, etc., and the openwork figures were accordingly formed at 70, 71 and 72, etc.

After the row of dots 60 to 62, etc., and the openwork 70 to 72, etc., has been woven, the bobbing threads 40 to 46, etc., are caused to pillar with the warp threads 20 to 26, etc., as shown, and the spool threads 51 to 57 are now extended variously, as shown, between the warp threads 20 to 26, and there tied by the pillaring of the bobbin threads 40 to 46, with the said warp threads, in the manner previously described, to weave the row of dots 80 to 82, etc., with the openwork figures 90 to 92, etc., therebetween, thereby completing one full repeat of the structure of the groundwork of the lace fabric illustrated, and the pattern is thereafter repeated to weave so much of the lace goods as may be desired.

Since the resulting Nottingham lace fabric contains more warp threads than a Nottingham lace fabric woven in the conventional manner upon a Nottingham lace curtain machine, it is, in eye appearance, of finer gauge than the conventional lace fabrics woven upon a Nottingham lace curtain machine, and this finer looking gauge Nottingham lace fabric opens up new fields of use for this new Nottingham lace fabric.

By using covered rubber threads or filaments as the warp threads 20 to 26, etc., and 30 to 36, etc., and cotton threads, which are inelastic, as the spool and bobbin threads, a Nottingham lace fabric which is elastic, and which can be stretched in any direction can be fabricated. An elastic Nottingham lace fabric of the character described, and which will stretch in any direction, is particularly well suited for use in the manufacture of girdles and other foundation garments.

While the Nottingham lace fabric shown and described is essentially double action goods, the invention is not limited in its application to such goods. It may be embodied in other Nottingham lace goods, including, among others, ordinary work, and combination goods.

The Nottingham lace fabric shown merely exemplifies one simple lace net or groundwork, and it should be understood that the size, and the particular arrangement of the dots 60 to 62, etc., and to 82, etc., is a matter of choice, and may be varied in a variety of Ways, and that clothing may be added to form ornamental work, if and as desired.

Other modifications of my invention will be obvious to skilled in the art.

What is claimed is:

1. In a Nottingham lace net and in combination, a first series of warp threads spaced apart across the width of the net to define open bars extending lengthwise of the lace net, a second series of warp threads, there being one warp thread of the second series positioned in each of the said open bars so that each warp thread is separated from the next warp thread of its own series by a warp thread of the other series, a series of bobbin threads, there being one bobbin thread common to one warp thread of each series, each common bobbin thread combining first with its warp thread of one series and then with its warp thread of the other series to form two separate and distinct groups of pillars, a series of spool threads extending across the warp threads of alternate bars from one pillar to another and tied to their respective pillars by said bobbin threads to weave staggered rows of spaced dots each one bar wide with bars of openwork between said dots, and the pillars of one group merging with the pillars of the other group before and after each successive row of dots is woven to tie off the corners of the said dots and weave a lane of openwork extending across the lace net between each succeeding staggered row of spaced dots.

2. In a Nottingham lace net and in combination, a first series of elastic warp threads spaced apart across the width of the net to define open bars extending lengthwise of the lace net, a second series of elastic warp threads, there being one warp thread of the second series positioned in each of the said open bars so that each warp thread is separated from the next warp thread of its own series by a warp thread of the other series, a series of inelastic bobbin threads, there being one such bobbin thread common to one elastic warp thread of each warp series, each such common bobbin thread combining first with its elastic warp thread of one series and then with its elastic warp thread of the other series to form two separate and distinct groups of elastic pillars, a series of inelastic spool threads extending across the warp threads of alternate bars from one pillar to another at predetermined intervals and tied to the said pillars to which they are extended by said bobbin threads to weave staggered rows of spaced dots each one bar wide with bars of openwork each one bar wide between said dots, and the pillars of one group merging with the pillars of the other group before and after each successive row of dots is Woven to tie off the four corners of each of the said dots and simultaneously weave a lane of openwork extending all across the lace net between each succeeding staggered row of spaced dots.

3. In a Nottingham lace net and in combination, a series of Warp threads, a series of spool threads, a series of bobbin threads, the number of warp threads being substantially greater than the number of bobbin threads, said bobbin threads when in conjunction with said warp threads coacting to form pillars for anchoring the spool threads when extended therebetween and thus form the groundwork of the lace net, said bobbin threads alternating from one warp thread to another in predetermined order to replace some of the Warp threads in the anchoring pillars with other and unpillared warp threads so that the gauge of the resulting lace net as indicated by the number and the spacing of the number of warp threads employed substantially exceeds the conventional pillar forming capacity of the bobbin threads, and said spool threads pillaring along first one and then the other of the said warp threads where said bobbin threads alternate from one warp thread to another so as to leave a lane of openwork extending all across the warp of the lace net.

4. In a Nottingham lace net and in combination, a series of warp threads, a series of bobbin threads, a series of spool threads, said warp and bobbin threads in conjunction coacting one with the other to form pillars for anchoring the spool threads when extended therebetween and forming the groundwork of the lace net, the number of warp threads provided substantially exceeding the number of bobbin threads and the conventional pillar forming capacity of the bobbin threads, said bobbin threads alternating back and forth from one warp thread to another in predetermined order so as to use all of the warp threads in the anchoring pillars so that the number of anchoring pillars actually formed and used to anchor the spool threads exceeds the conventional pillar forming capacity of the bobbin threads and the gauge of the groundwork of the resulting lace net as indicated by the number of warp threads provided and used therein exceeds the gauge of a conventional lace net as measured by the conventional pillar forming capacity of the bobbin threads, and said spool threads pillaring first along one and then along the other of the said warp threads under control of said bobbin threads at the point where said bobbin threads alternate from one Warp thread to another so as to leave a lane of openwork extending all across the warp of the lace net.

5. A Nottingham lace net as defined in claim 3, wherein the warp threads are composed of filaments of covered rubber, and the bobbin and the spool threads are made of cotton.

6. A Nottingham lace net as defined in claim 3, wherein the warp threads are composed of an elastic material and the bobbin and the spool threads are composed of an inelastic material.

7. A Nottingham lace net as defined in claim 4, wherein all of the warp threads are composed of covered elastic filaments, and all of the bobbin and spool threads are inelastic.

8. A Nottingham lace net as defined in claim 1, wherein all of the warp threads in each series are composed of covered elastic filaments.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 

